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Concise History of Llandeilo - Part 6
from Llandeilo
by Eirwen Jones, 1984
Ann Beale and Llandeilo
19th Century eye-witness
Anne Beale, writer and governess, resided in the town in the mid 19th century. In Traits and Stories of the Welsh peasantry (Published Routledge, Soho, London 1849) and in her novels such as Seven Years for Rachel she wrote her observations of the people, places and things she saw around her.
When I came hither, I was struck by the loveliness of the country as well as by the character, manners and language of its primitive inhabitants.
I enter at once upon Wales. Certainly it is a lovely country, I thought as we passed through every diversity of home scenery. In the green vallies, rich in pasture, the native black cattle and the far-famed Welsh sheep were feeding while they dotted the countryside also with black and white.
I had not expected to be so much "at home" as I felt myself when I reached my journey's end nor had I anticipated the warmth and friendliness of manner that characterises the Welsh who are neither distant nor cold but easily approachable - the cordiality of the Welsh, like their mountain streams, gushes forth at once and you are delighted with its freshness. They are very hospitable moreover and welcome you by deeds as well as words to their friends.
There is humour as well as shrewd observation in her description of the Llandeilo of her day.
Our town, though of considerable importance in this part of the world might at first glance be taken by many an assuming person as a village. A town however it is, containing several streets, dignified by different names such as Carmarthen Street, High Street and the like. As there is not the slightest danger of your losing your way, amongst their mazes, you at first rather wonder, why these streets are named at all.
You enter at one end of the town drive straight through and go out at the other end. On your right you see one little street branching off and on your left another of larger dimension, whilst houses surround the church, both upon the hill and at its base. There are one or two more detached streets or lanes but "as everybody knows everybody", why should they all be named?
Let us look at the shop doors and we shall see.
Surnames - There we see John James, William James and a host of Jones's Lewis Lewis, Daniel Lewis and twenty other Lewis-es; Griffey Gruffiths, Thomas Griffiths and an incalculable number of Griffiths-es. There are Thomas-es, Williams-es, Davies-es and Shenkins without end. Two or three families of the same name live next door to each other, one selling haberdashery, another meat and a third gingerbread. Half-a-dozen Jones-es may dwell in the same house and as many Evans-es may dine at the same table, yet all be totally unconnected with each other. Without names to the streets therefore, the post master would find considerable difficulty in knowing to which of the one hundred Jones-es, Jenkins or Evans-es he must send the different letters and a stranger in discovering the particular Mr, Mrs or Miss Rees he came to visit. Imagine a billet-doux addressed to a fair young lady opened by an old maid, or a secret back-biting correspondence falling into the hands of the object of it. The consequence might be anything but agreeable to the parties concerned…
Nothing is more amusing than to hear the place of residence, profession or trade, added not only to his own name but to that of his wife and daughters. Not infrequently, a nickname is used to distinguish a person, which becoming habitual has an equally strange effect.
"Well, Betty!" says Mary Patch, "where are you going with that note?"
"Oh!" replies Betty, all importance, "I've got to carry it to Mrs. Thomas, the Captain, from Mrs. James, the doctor." Betty confidently insinuates that there's a party going to be for Mr and Mrs. Jones, the lawyer who are staying at Mr. James the doctor's and notes have been sent to Miss Price, the clergyman, Mrs Rotherch, the curate, Mr, Mrs and Miss Lewis Davies, Llansannan and she didn't know who besides
Llandeilo town was to Anne Beale's eyes compact and firm. It was a town of clustering houses. A lush green countryside extended generously beyond it in all directions. Interest centred on the church which gave the town its name. Its square tower stood firmly facing the four winds, surmounted by a shining brass weathercock. The church was massive, of dressed stone, standing in a churchyard peculiar in itself in that a busy road dissected it. The grave-yards were as yet verdant. Grassy mounds marked the graves. The greensward was interspersed with imposing stone memorials. By-paths between wicket gates intersected both the upper and lower churchyard. In the midst of life we are in death, must have been an ever-constant thought.
Anne Beale wrote of what she saw before her. The details of her observations are valuable to the later historian:
Country folk - We will follow this troop of Welsh women fresh from market. How well they ride! They sit their horses so squarely and comfort ably, as if they were in an easy chair. No wonder the French were alarmed into a retreat from the Welsh coast at the sudden approach of a phalanx of Welsh women in their red cloaks and shawls.
The steady old horse looks well-laden and certainly is well covered. Poor beast! The tips of his ears and his tail with a portion of his legs and his feet are alone visible on one side.
In front sits a jolly farmer's wife, with a round face and a broad hat. Each cheek is armed with a very stiff cap, the border of which meet under the chin. A scarlet cloak falls from her shoulders and almost covers part of her steed; beneath the cloak a striped petticoat of coarse woollen material reaches nearly to her shoes which are very substantial and if they do not shape, at least protect the feet they contain. One hand indifferently holds the bridle, the other grasps with care a huge basket, evidently loaded with the marketings. The dame disdains a whip or the horse requires none, as he jogs on at a steady, untiring pace.
Behind, on the same horse, sits a well-looking girl about eighteen, the age at which Welshwomen mature into prettiness. There is no more attention to appearance observable in her costume. Her rounded figure is shrouded by no cloak but a neat crimson handkerchief is pinned tightly over her shoulder and as the loose outer skirt of her gown falls back, it reveals a petticoat of fine material, striped with red.
Open your eyes, O ye beauties of Hyde Park! and behold this respectable damsel sitting composedly beside her mother, on a horse whose paces I should fancy, are none of the easiest, without even that ancient English accommodation, for riding double, a pillion.
Anne Beale's writings, her sketches and stories, made Wales, and in particular, the Towy Valley, known to a wider public and this at a time when Wales had a strong tourist appeal, especially to travellers on horse-back. The coast of the Principality was generally known but the rural hinterland was undiscovered country. Unknown to her she did much good by recording Welsh scenes and customs.
Population
Details of population are difficult to certify owing to different interpretations of the area known as Llandeilo.
Llandeilo
1801 population: 647
1831 population: 1,269 (greater than Cardiff).
Census of 1891 Llandeilo Fawr
- Population
- 20,483
- Infants under 2 years
- 986
- People speaking English only
- 926 (4.7%)
- People speaking Welsh only
- 13,327 (68.6%)
- People speaking both Welsh and English
- 5,151 (26.5%)
- People speaking other languages
- 1
- 1984 Borough of Dinefwr
- 30,000
Llandeilo has enjoyed a high status as an administrative centre since the early Middle Ages.
An important event of the 19th century was Y Lecsiwn Fawr - the Great Election - held in 1802. It lasted eleven days.
Candidates
The candidates were Sir William Paxton of Middleton Hall and Sir James Hamlyn Williams of Edwinsford.
There were six polling booths erected in the upper churchyard and one for the sheriff. The result of the poll was
- Sir J. H. Williams
- 1217
- Sir W. Paxton
- 1110
Several people from Llandeilo were summoned to London on a "scrutiny" of the votes but the result was in favour of Williams. The Election and the scrutiny proved expensive.
There was much native sympathy for Williams, a member of the local gentry and a representative of the "establishment".
Sir William Paxton was a more colourful and ambitious personality. He was a London financier who had made a fortune in India. He lived in Middleton Hall near Llanarthney and had a town house, Belle Vue, in Llandeilo. He is said to have entertained the poet Wordsworth here.
His supporters created a riot when the result of the election was announced and Sir William appealed - unsuccessfully - against the result. He had promised, when electioneering, to build a bridge over the Towy if he were returned to Parliament. In later years he built Paxton's Tower, a well-known landmark, to commemorate the victory of Nelson at Trafalgar. The official name of the building is Nelson's Tower but it is generally known as Paxton's Tower.
The cost of the election to Sir William Paxton amounted to £15,690 4s 2d. Details of expenses incurred include:
- No of Breakfasts to voters etc
- 11,070
- No of Dinners
- 36,901
- No of Suppers
- 684
- Gallons of Ale
- 25,275
- Casks
- 605
- Bottles of Spirits
- 8,879
- Bottles of Sherry
- 11,068
- Bottles of Cider
- 509
- Cost of Milk Punch
- £18-18-0
- Bottles of Porter
- 8,879
- Bottles of Sherry
- 460
- Bottles of Cider
- 509
- Cost of horses employed
- £4,561
- Cost of ribbons
- £736
Besides, other smaller items.
[The pound was worth £40.04 in 1802 compared to its value today (Bank of England figure). Paxton would have to pay out £628,236 to voters if the election were held now.]
There was much general dissatisfaction following on the election result. More riots followed and it is recorded that the rope bells in the church tower were cut.
An election held on the 12th day of June 1857 was conducted with a greater show of law and order. David Pugh Esquire of Manorfabon, Llandeilo was elected without opposition.
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